Action & Attraction

OUT OF VILLA, INTO VALLEY

The Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan lets guests experience A Day in The Life of a Balinese Farmer, which includes a morning trek through the Ayung River valley, a chance to get shin-deep in the paddy fields, and to learn traditional agrarian techniques.

Courtesy Photo

It was a beautiful early Thursday morning in January, when we together with several colleagues headed up to Sayan. Entrance into this resort's realm has always been full of dramatic yet solemn 'wows'. Its striking setting greets guests upon approach to the compound – a steep ravine filled with lush tropical foliage bordering the blue cloud-filled skyline, rushing flows of the river below, and the terraced paddies that are still distinctive of the region.
Entering the compound, all one can encounter is a bale with a thatched roof that looms tall as if aloft in the trees. Staff then readily welcome guests and escort them across this massive wooden bridge that leads them to the lotus pond, and no sort of reception or lobby in sight.

This 'pleasant bewilderment' was the literal objective of the resort's architect; John Heah of Heah & Company (London), who created a completely new image for the Balinese hotel. The Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is a striking piece of aerial sculpture, the huge elliptical lotus pond sitting above a base structure that appears like a romantic ruin set within this spectacular Ayung valley landscape. He also made sure that his dramatic design would sit seamlessly within the environment, through intact natural elements. And this large lotus pool has since become the central appeal of the whole site. The site is a bowl. It's almost like a bowl of rice because there are paddy fields down there, everywhere.

One cannot but just pause for a minute, or more, at this man-made lotus pond, which also happens to form the roof of the main building. Here it enables guests to take in the 360-degree view of the green gorge. As a tropical retreat, everything about Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan spells romance, and it has served as a passionate setting for various newlyweds and couples. After the vista pause, guests at last 'find' the lobby downstairs, directly underneath the pond.

It was here that the day's adventure began. Despite the quirky title given above, the excursion that takes guests into the paddy field where they learn about traditional and organic grown herbs and spices, field irrigation, the best kinds of paddy and rice seedlings to be planted, and how to plant them, is certainly on the more luxurious side. An arduous trek for some, yes. Muddy shins and soles and hands, yes. But a full range of luxury features keeps bringing you back and reminding you that you are still a consistently pampered guest of the resort. However for some other guests, the break away from the facility and resort compounds and getting closer to nature and the Bali highlands' outback, might spell 'relief', 'escape' and 'insightful.'

The Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan has provided the opportunity to its guests to experience 'a day in the life of a Balinese farmer' since April last year. It gives guests a glimpse into the values that run through the island's agricultural society. Although many lives of the locals have shifted, especially in the highly populated southern parts of the island, many areas such as the uplands where paddies are lush retain the agrarian ways.

The program begins with a morning trek through the Ayung River valley. Our reliable guide for the day, courteous Four Seasons staff, Sayan local and mother of two, Ketut Sariani, showed us past the compound and river and to the organic gardens with the various names of herbs labeled at each plant, and we quizzed each other on the local, Indonesian and English names of each. She won.

We continued to traverse the picturesque terraced rice fields and jungle paths leading to the banks of the Ayung. Along the way, we witnessed the rustic activities of the local farmers and learned about the complex irrigation system used in the paddy fields, known locally as 'Subak'. After working up an appetite on the trek breakfast was served at a private bale, overlooking mirror-like water surfaces of the terraces on the southern rim of the resort's complex. We had tea boiled over a wood fire, together with a fresh breakfast.

After the break and a demonstration, we had the opportunity to plant rice seeds. Balinese farmers are viewed as artists who sculpt the rice terraces. Pak Wayan Mudra showed us the ploughs and the way to level the mud to make way for the seedlings. We all put ourselves to the test afterwards.

Pak Wayan also told us how to choose the right young coconut – not too ripe and not too young. Although the coconuts were already picked for us that day (how convenient), he mentioned that guests are welcome to have a go at climbing up a tree and picking their own! Well, if the trek and the rice planting weren't strenuous enough, for some, that is.

Following the refreshment break, with a dash of lemon with the swigs of relief, it was time to get back to luxurious pampering. Relaxing the sore muscles and scrubbing away the dirt of a hard day's labor (the real Balinese farmer would perhaps chuckle at this). Instead of bathing in the river, you can indulge in a spa treatment that includes the application of fresh herbal blends to the hair and scalp, an invigorating river stone scrub to revive the skin, and a soothing Balinese massage complete with fragrant coconut oil and freshly grated ginger paste to warm and relax the body. Luxury spa treatment… inspired by the simple 'batukali' river stone.

The day's adventures end with a traditional lunch of Nasi Campur, Indonesian "mixed rice". The meal is enjoyed at a more secluded bale along the river. The lunch wooden bento-style presentation of its Nasi Campur delivers steamed Balinese red rice, "Be Pasih Panggang" grilled fish served with the notorious spicy Balinese sauce of 'sambal matah', "Kare Ayam" braised chicken in curry sauce with eggplant and lime leaf, "Tempe Manis" wok-fried fermented bean cake with galangal and sweet soya sauce, and "Sayur Urap" Balinese style vegetables with roasted coconut, chili, shallots, and garlic. The latter consists of a specific mix called Suna Cekuh, comprised of chopped shallots, garlic, wild ginger, hot chili and vegetable oil, crushed black peppercorn and turmeric. All that with a fine assortment of various 'sambal' for you to further engage in discussion about. And there's the favorite 'kolak pisang' stewed banana dessert and fruit skewers for dessert. Ibu Ketut Sariani accompanied us throughout our hearty meal as we enjoyed conversation and discussed further what we might had missed out on in the field.

In time, we were presented a unique memento, an album interestingly made up of recycled paper and natural ingredients with pages filled with photographs from our adventure, as well as recipes of our lunch for us to try to cook and enjoy at home. In the album you'll also find a "Certificate of Achievement", certifying that you've "gone through an intensive familiarization program with the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan's farmer team... and are now certified to be a Balinese farmer. Congratulations." Show it to the next Balinese farmer you meet in the rice field. Wait for the grin. Or better still, to your friends and family back home, so they'll want to have a go.

Another great activity on offer at the Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is the Tri Hita Karana. Borrowed from the Balinese philosophy of human beings' harmonious relationship with God, nature, and with other human beings, it is translated into a package that includes a yoga class, a garden tour and a spa treatment. Find out more on how to have fun and get down and dirty in the paddies – in style, as well as on other adventurous, interesting and insightful packages with luxury services, from Four Seasons Resorts Bali. «»

Text and photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi

• Four Seasons Resorts Bali
(0361) 701-010
• Four Seasons Bali at Sayan, Ubud
(0361) 977-577; www.fourseasons.com/sayan