Beyond Bali

RED ISLAND, GOLDEN COAST

Pantai Pulau Merah (literally, Red Island Coast) is located in the district of Pesanggaran, approximately 60 kilometers south of the town of Banyuwangi in East Java. Getting there requires a two-and-a-half hour drive from Banyuwangi due to the rugged terrain.

Surfers from the Americas, Europe and from Down Under touchdown in Bali and then island-hop to Banyuwangi in East Java to try out the south sea waves.

Uneven and compromised roads all contribute to the slow pace of a journey to this exotic coastline. Should you prefer to get there by public transport, by bus for example, you can climb aboard at the district of Srono where buses carry passengers up to the Pesanggaran market, and from there continue your journey to Pantai Pulau Merah by motorcycle-taxis known locally and nationally as 'ojek'. And even by motorcycle it is quite a trip. The last time I made the trip there were only 2 ojek available to carry vagabonding passengers to the coast. The two-wheeled trip normally takes from 30 to 45 minutes.

Such an intriguing name it has…. From the seven islets that surround Pulau Merah there is one larger one with a cone hill towering hundreds of meters above the waves. The rays of sun that shine over the island hill give off a maroon colored impression from afar. And when observed carefully indeed its red brownish sedimentary sandstone becomes apparent, which is perhaps why this beach, located in the village of Sumberagung to be exact, found its assigned designation.

Actually the islet's perimeter has endured serious abrasion, as the currents of the south sea are notorious for its raging tides and undercurrents. But the high waves on the other hand easily become a favored playground among the adventurous wave-seeking surfers.

3 TO 5-METER WAVES RULE THE SOUTH SEA AT PULAU MERAH

According to Bambang, a local surfer hailing from Banyuwangi, even at low tide the waves can exceed 3 meters. At high tide they can reach up to 5 meters and even more. Pulau Merah is located on the southern coast, a pristine and protected area with a 'Sabuk Hijau' (green belt) surrounding the beaches signifying the protected area, after the damage brought by a tsunami that occurred in 1993.

A pristine stretch of beach Pantai Pulau Merah is, with golden bright sand grained with colorful seashells, and not a speck of manmade litter visible. Surfers who have fallen in love with the place have erected a sign that says, "Keep Red Island Beach Clean," justifying the wave riding and scenic assets of Pulau Merah's waves and sand.

It is no wonder that so many avid surfers come to try the thrilling waves at Pulau Merah, adventurers from America, Europe and from Down Under touchdown in Bali and the travel to Banyuwangi to try out the waves. Relatively low cost accommodations at the surf camps become the reason that grown-ups and groms from all over lengthen their stay at these simplest of accommodations. Moreover, with the hospitality of the locals from the village of Sumberagung and the traditional nuances, it all enhances the authenticity of this coast.

Pulau Merah is moderately cool as it is surrounded by forests thick with decades old wild guava trees. Amidst the lush trees one may easily find traditional warungs setup by the locals serving various typical Javanese delights and beverages. The aromatic hints of barbeque firewood in the air tempt a satiation of appetite together with (a glass not a cup of) freshly brewed Java. And small wonder the surfers and tourists alike just love using the special guava firewood to roast their fish under the cool shade of the trees, with nature's showcase of a serene and exotic Pulau Merah backdrop.

SIDELIGHTS

To the east of the coast lies the timeworn Tawang Alun temple. Many Hindu devotees come to this place, from around Pulau Merah, from out of town, and even from the neighboring island of Bali for specific holy day rituals such as the Galungan, Kuningan, and Pagerwesi celebrations, as well as on other dates.

The seven islets are also called Tumpeng (or Tumpang) Pitu Mountains or simply referred to as Tumpeng Pitu, due to the sight of the islets when viewed in a row from afar, like seven neatly lined up peaks.

The hundred meter-high rising 'hills' are collectively a natural reserve under the supervision of Perusahaan Hutan Negara Indonesia (Perhutani), the Indonesia state-owned forestry company. In 2007, a foreign mining company forwarded proposals to operate there; the hill islets were later known to be rich with tons of gold deposits.

SURF, STAY N' SURROUNDS...

- A Surfing House has 7 rooms with in-room bath and shower facilities (approximately Rp.150,000 per night).

- A Surf Camp (located beside Tawang Alun Temple) has 4 rooms with external (adjacent) shower facilities; at this time the accommodation facility is under contract by PT. Indo Multi Niaga (the gold mining company operating at Tumpang Pitu).

- Tawang Alun Temple's gates are usually closed/locked and are only opened for pilgrims and prayers during Piodalan temple anniversaries, and Purnama full moon and Tilem new moon ceremonies.

- Motorcycle taxis (ojek) from Pesanggaran to the Pulau Merah Coast costs a meager Rp.20,000 (one-way).

- For transport by village-route buses from Pesanggaran to Srono (to continue to the terminal at Banyuwangi) spare from Rp. 10,000. «»

Text and photos by Erik Wijaya