Waterfalls, Rainbows and Legends of Lombok
A visit to the mountain village of Senaru on the foot of Mount Rinjani, unveils river valleys, rainforests, double waterfalls of legendary
youth-enhancing properties, critters, and panoramic vistas of
rice fields stretching boundlessly towards the sea.
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The route of an irrigation canal that became our bridge, forming a rudimentary aqueduct as it crossed the river. |
It was when I was in Lombok on the road to Senaru, eagerly awaiting that initial breathtaking glimpse of Mt Rinjani, that I remembered my first ever view of the mighty volcano several years earlier from the top of Bali’s Mt Agung. It had been a humbling experience as, perched beside the crater rim, I had watched the sunrise from behind the majestic shadowy outline of Indonesia’s second highest mountain and Gunung Agung’s only companion apart from the gods above a sea of shimmering pink clouds.
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Several minutes before we completed our descent we caught our first sight of the dense white foam of this beautiful, 40-meter, tiered waterfall. |
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Mount Rinjani in the distance. |
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Now, once again, Gunung Rinjani was dominating the skyline, but I had not come to the pretty mountain village of Senaru, gateway to the Gunung Rinjani National Park, with any bold plans to conquer summits. Instead, my friends and I had been attracted by a much softer option, a gentle walk along the river valley that would embrace rainforests and waterfalls and later conclude with panoramic vistas of rice fields stretching boundlessly towards the sea.
We employed the services of a local guide, a young Sasak girl, before setting out on our mellow adventure, which initially led us down a well-trodden flight of rough steps and through the tropical forest to the floor of the valley. We could already hear the roar of Sindang Gila, and several minutes before we completed our descent we caught our first sight of the dense white foam of this beautiful 40-meter tiered waterfall. The small gravel beach and the river-worn, smooth, flat rocks at the base of the falls are a meeting and bathing place for the local people; and a group of sarong-clad girls were giggling and splashing each other in their shared, natural ‘mandi’. Lots of big smiles were followed by lots of giggles as one of the girls politely asked my name in response to a dare by her friends.
I had heard a rumour that bathing here could take years off your life, so I eagerly stripped down to my swimsuit and rushed in, before learning from my guide that it was actually another waterfall, further upstream, which was blessed with the youth-enhancing properties. Nevertheless there was something profoundly energising about the fiercely cascading deluge and the shallow pool, and I attracted some smiles from my newfound bathing companions as I endured a strong and invigorating back massage under the full force of the intense flow. I knew that if I really wanted to test the waters of youth, I would first need to absorb all of the revitalising energy that I could get, for there was quite a long walk ahead of me.
Refreshed and recharged I followed my companions upstream along the banks of the river in search of the elixir of life. We ducked under huge umbrella ferns while negotiating a pathway around hanging creepers and moss-encrusted trees with sheets of tattered lichen draped about their branches. Strangle figs were embracing their hosts, but the living forest is not a dark place. The sun-dappled glades proved to be the playground of large butterflies and iridescent dragonflies; I glimpsed stag-horn ferns nestled in rugged cradles and a shiny, emerald green lizard basking on a warm boulder. Strange blooms and flowering creepers added bright splashes of colour, as sweet scents pervaded my nostrils and the constant roar of the river served to fortify this rich harmony of nature.
Our journey followed the route of an irrigation canal that became our bridge at one point, forming a rudimentary aqueduct as it crossed the river. Later when the trail briefly disappeared, we had to step across boulders and take off our shoes as we waded knee-deep through the fast-flowing current.
Finally we reached the breathtaking Tui Kelep, a magnificent double waterfall dominated by a projectile jet of pure white energy – its backdrop a broad curtain of tumbling, foaming water lined with saturated moss and green vines. It was both awesome and enchanting, the very essence of nature. Apart from my companions there was nobody around and, privileged to be in such a magical place, I felt as though we had made a secret discovery.
Slipping on the slimy rocks and battling to stay on my feet against the turbulent flow of the river, I scrambled, slithered and crawled into the deep pool. Then, encompassed by a rainbow – a perfect ring – and bobbing within the swirling cauldron of refreshingly-cool water, I allowed myself to drift in a circle behind the main waterfall. I emerged slightly battered but exhilarated, rejuvenated and, according to local legend, one year younger!
For the time being, my goal had been accomplished; but volcanoes, waterfalls, rainbows and legends are addictive and I knew, without a doubt, that I would be returning soon. By Rachel Greaves
Lombok Cultural & Tourism Office
Jl. Singosari 2 Mataram Lombok, (0370) 632-723 |
