Mother Nature: "Gimme a Break!"
silence (n)
stillness, peace, hush, calm, quiet, quietness
muteness, taciturnity, reticence, reserve, uncommunicativeness
silence (v)
make quiet, shut up, hush, shush, muzzle, quiet, quieten
On March 7 this island proves its sole distinction and uniqueness as the Balinese celebrate among their most auspicious of days, referred to as Nyepi or 'Sipeng' — the silent New Year. So distinguished is the celebration that no comparison may be made, not even with its çaka calendar origin of India, where the Hindu religion is derived from. And the striking difference compared with other New Year celebrations is its silence and deep contemplative attributes and rules, that the whole island - locals and foreigners alike - must obey.
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Photo by BSP |
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Photo by Gustra |
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Photo by Nyoman Ari Gunadi |
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Unlike other religious ceremonies where visitors or non-Balinese Hindu's are welcome to view or to join in, Nyepi requires everyone on the island to participate in the day of seclusion. Locals and foreigners alike are expected to follow the "4-No's". No fire (amati geni) – lamp's, stove's, kitchen or electrical appliances - may be lit or turned on, no work (amati karya) may be carried out, no journeys (amati lelungan) - leaving the house compound - are permitted; and no pleasurable acts (amati lelanguan) - engagement in entertainment, amusement or other delights - are allowed.
So secluded is this sacred day that there will be neither arrivals nor departures by airplanes, no vehicles nor taxis on the streets, or ferries connecting the island to the outer world.
The Ngurah Rai International Airport, bus stations and seaports are closed for over 24 hours from 12 pm on March 6 until daybreak (approx. 6 am) on March 8. The airport only operates in case of transit or emergency landings, with no passenger allowed to leave the airport.
Only crucial services such as hospitals and fire stations, ambulances, police and appointed security personnel are given approval to freely operate. Mothers with newborns or nursing family members may use a 5-watt light bulb, but must ensure the curtains are closed so no light is visible from outside.
For the Hindu followers, Nyepi is a day for meditation and contemplation in silence. Visitors join in the unique experience and join in on the island's darkness and silence. To a greater extreme, Nyepi falls on a new moon - the darkest night - with the skies vividly and unobtrusively dotted by starlight.
After days of rituals, in contrast to the coming day of silence, bamboo pole torches light up the roadsides and giant ogoh-ogoh
papier-mâché ogres are paraded at the eve of the New Year.
Astronomically, during the time of Nyepi three heavenly bodies - the earth, moon and sun - are at their nearest proximity, positioned in line. The sun is above the equator, moving from the southern to the northern hemisphere (although it is actually the earth's rotation and revolution that governs this). For Bali, the time also marks the beginning of the dry season. On Nyepi Eve, March 6, a rowdy atmosphere colors every corner of the island. Young people and children march around their village compounds carrying huge hand-made papier-mâché ogres - the ogoh-ogoh - in a noisy street procession. Gongs, cymbals, drums - even to the extent of utilizing metal kitchen utensils - everything is sounded along with the procession of looming monsters of random sizes. The noise is aimed at awakening the "true" demons so they will see the vast array of offerings and food available on every corner, gate and crossroad. Balinese believe that if these demons are satisfied they won't interfere with humans, especially on the following day of silent meditation.
In South Bali, this monster procession receives great attention. Millions of rupiah are spent to build each one. The preparations are started over a month prior to the celebrations, in order to conceptualize and build the monsters. Teams of village youth go around from door to door within their neighborhood asking for small amounts of change. A good monster may take two months to build at a cost of millions of rupiah, only to be displayed for a few days and staged in a procession for few hours before being set afire on the nearby beach or by a river (watercourses philosophically wash away and cleanse). The message is: 'let's burn all the bad of the passing year and welcome the New Year with a pure mind.'
But the true ritual of Nyepi actually takes place from one to three days earlier (like other things, most rituals vary among the different communities of Bali). For Melasti, huge processions crowd the roadways as the Balinese, dressed in their finest ceremonial garments, walk together from their villages to the sea, lakes or holy springs. Such processions can stretch literally for miles, as all villages carry their village temple heirlooms (pratima) for ritual cleansing. These Pratima are small often gold-decorated wooden statues that serve as symbols of deities and Balinese family ancestors.
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When all human activity shuts down for a whole day on this small island, the sounds and breath of nature is at its best. Island-wide, from the hills to the coasts, ricefields are left unattended and fishermen park their traditional jukung boats and leave their chores for a day. Photo by BSP |
With all the actual hush and hibernation that comes and goes in the one day of Nyepi, Mother Nature seemingly gets her chance for a 'deep breath' and pause, after 364 days in a vernal equinox year nursing the whole of us - mankind, the children of the planet – and cradling our harsh daily activities.
By Nyoman Dana
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