Gifts of Agung
"In the dark we drove through the streets that climbed away from the Padang Bai coastline and into the forested slopes of the sleeping mountain..."
Rounding a bend in the road we were surprised to see a floodlit marketplace with everyone operating as if in daylight. Dogs barked, trucks were being loaded, people buzzed back and forth by bike, it was as if we had reached topsy-turvy town where night is day. In reality it was the town of Salak and the market reaches pandemonium around 1 am so that the exotic lovely snake fruit can be in Denpasar for dawn.
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| Misty Pasar Agung Temple our start point lies behind. |
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| A pause at 2,300 meters above sea level. |
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Just the first of the surreal experiences that would jolt us out of our comfort zones and leave us the other side of dawn like newborns gasping at the wonder of it all.
Our hosts at the Alila Manggis had prepared us for the climb with cheering words such as "It is really hard..." and "Don't try it after a night out..."
We began at the car park "base' with pencil thin torches, water and plenty of enthusiasm to be blessed at the temple. Our guide described the significance of the mountain to the Balinese people and how many of them make the climb to ensure good fortune comes their way. Through the canopy we trod, surging steadily upward following in the footprints of the guide, stepping over pipes and roots lit by the rippling light of the moon and the torches. We stopped every moment or so to catch our breath and adjust to the thinning air. We drank water to quench our thirst and stamped our feet to keep out the damp from the ground. After about forty minutes we broke through the canopy and onto the sides of the mountain, lit by the moon our attention remained on the ground beneath as we picked our way over rocks and rugged scrub. Only the haunting moan of the wind disturbed the peace, we barely marveled at it all as we climbed, focused as we were on placing one foot surely after the other, but as we stopped it was impossible to ignore the change in atmosphere and the silence. Oh my gosh... the silence.
At 2,000 meters above sea level my daughter felt the pressure in her ears, having had a slight cold on venturing out. I suggested we stay put while the rest of our party climbed on. Alone on the side of that magnificent mountain in the dark my daughter slumbering with soft snores I caught a momentary glimpse of infinity, the moment when there is no time, no end, no beginning. Suspended in darkness, feeling only the cold of the air and the bareness of my surrounds I felt physically, mentally and spiritually stripped of all preconceptions. I felt myself shrinking smaller and smaller into the darkness before dawn.
In a split second I was propelled from my navel gazing into a greater than ever awareness, as light slipped gently into the world and the birds began to chorus I was made aware of just how totally awesome this planet is. I was sitting on a mountainside and below me clouds raced past chased away by the dawn to my left.
Fingers of light appeared through the edges of the clouds and poked fun at me. "What's the big deal" they seemed to say. "This happens everyday, you just don't see it!"
"Relax and enjoy it."
So I did and moments later my daughter and I were dancing on the side of the mountain pretending we were stepping on the clouds. Above us we could see our party as they clambered down to join us for breakfast and before long the traffic of the day was beginning. A family from Belgium skipped up from beneath and the Japanese couple who had passed us in the dark returned from the summit beaming with pleasure. After we had eaten and warmed ourselves with tea we began our descent. The descent is strange because you look where you are supposed to go and think "I cannot do that!" but you know you already did, you climbed up, in the dark, with no idea of where you were. And if that isn't a metaphor for something...
I cannot recommend this journey highly enough, you only need to be reasonably fit and have the time to spend a day recovering at the lovely Alila Manggis, Candi Dasa. Everyone had their own experience that night and each was as unique and individual as the people. I say make the time and go get your gift of good fortune from Mount Gunung Agung. As for mine I shall be ever grateful.
By Katy Robertson
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