Flowing and Victorious
Once again the Balinese 210-day Pawukon Cycle recurs, presenting the colorful celebration of Galungan Day on the calendar, this November 29.
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| Tirta Empul, the water garden and springs located in Tampaksiring. Photo by Donny Cahyadi |
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Noted as a three-day celebration with an eve and a day-after, this major celebration is in fact the culmination of a series of days in its preparation of philosophical meanings, and a legendary backdrop as well.
Starting off with the day on the cycle known as Tumpek Wariga, 25 days before Galungan on November 4, rituals dedicated to Bhatara Sangkara, god of fertility and plantation that contributes to sustenance of human life. In a sense, the day in praise of harvests such as the fruits that are required for Galungan, several weeks later.
The root word of Galungan, Galung, means 'battle' in Kavi (the oldest script of the Indic-derived Javanese language), reflecting the philosophical and spiritual 'battle' against negative influences, or in other words, spiritual restraint from temptations. Balinese housewives, 3 days prior to Galungan on a day called Penyekeban, make sweet cakes called tape that require a fermentation process called 'nyekeb', which is to signify this nature of enclosure or restraint. The snacks are ready by the time the celebrations come around.
Penampahan, the first day of the Galungan trilogy, arrives on November 28 and further temptations are gotten rid of. This is symbolically represented by the slaughter or "nampah' of pigs for communal feasts. Pigs are known as the symbol of tamas (laziness and undignified nature). Another Balinese word, "nampa" also means 'welcoming in', in this case, the eve. Bamboo poles being erected in front of households symbolizing upright spirit of gratitude. These Penjor poles are adorned with nature's sustenance, such as rice, fruits, cakes, and white and yellow cloths.
The major celebration has the gods descend with further blessings at temple prayers and congregations. The day after, Manis, is a day for family and happy rejoicing.
Tampaksiring village, 36 kilometers north from Denpasar, is a legendary backdrop to Galungan. The name of its major temple is taken from the holy spring within.
The mythological battle between Mayadenawa, demon king of Bedulu, and god Indra surrounds the philosophical meanings of the triumph of dharma over adharma. Mayadenawa, a callous ruler who disregarded dharma and forbade his subjects from a religious and righteous life, had god Indra set off to put an end to his evil rule. Halfway through battle, the king devised a toxic spring that Indra's troops later drank from. Indra thrust a spear into the ground forming a curative spring. The spring became that of Tirta Empul.
The 'battlefield' spanned various places over the now northern Ubud area, which all have a tale to tell. Mayadenawa fled through dense forests on the sides of his feet, hoping Indra and the army would not recognize his footprints, forming what we now know as Tampaksiring, literally 'sideway footprints'. Indra's magic arrow put an end to the rebelling king.
The Balinese and Majapahit troops paid tribute to Indra, commemorating the triumph as Galungan, the victory of good over the evil, dharma over adharma. An official announcement 10 days later, commemorated as Kuningan. Kuningan,believed to derive from uningang, meaning 'to announce'. Kuningan day recurs December 9.
By Nyoman Dana, photo by Murdani Usman |
