A Sculpted Village
Drive up north from Ubud and into the craftsman's dominion of the Pakudui Village in Tegallalang.
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A right turn up from the famed rice paddy outlook will have you entering the village with a notion of inward bound to any particular highland Balinese village - cool atmosphere, dense palm foliage, spread of the paddies, smiling and cheerful schoolchildren, and the steady-paced farming elders tending either their cattle or roosters... and an addition in Pakudui's case, the myriads of wooden blocks, logs, shavings, and last but not least, the magnificent art forms from these materials that are lined up along the small and winding village road.
The tour through this village is a journey of witnessing the splendor of local genius at its best. Here you will find extraordinary varieties of ornamental woodwork and omni scale carvings. The villagers here, avid Balinese craftsmen with skills incomparable to any world recognized artists, have taken up different forms of sculptures and effigies, either handed down through generations or spurred as a result of an ever-growing creative process using the most natural of all media - wood. But through your village tour in Pakudui you will eventually notice the recurring presence of one particular mythical and significantly Balinese figure. The figure of the Garuda.
Amongst the carved mythical lions, horses, human figures, dogs, dragons, vases, frogs, kangaroos, cats, ornate totems, panels, doors, windows, tables and the many brilliant forms of creativity extending even to large-scale dinosaurs, the Garuda seems to be majestically ever present.
As a matter of fact, the village of Pakudui is actually dubbed and has deserved the title of 'Garuda Village' because if this. The village is comprised of cottage-style workshops, studios and galleries that in a way contribute largely to the income of the villagers, deriving many benefits from their three-dimensional art and crafting skills.
The Garuda, just like the incomplete giant at the south of Bali's peninsula in the island landmark project Garuda Wisnu Kencana, is often depicted with the supreme Hindu god Vishnu riding on its back between its wide spreading wings.
To talk of Pakudui is to talk of Made Ada, a prominent sculptor from this village that has become an authority on wood carved Garuda statues, having sold his creations worldwide and being the most sought after figure by art enthusiasts and collectors. It is also due to his contributions that his fellow villagers have gained from the benefits of his world-renowned reputation.
A master craftsman, Made Ada has turned his village home into a museum, and as you turn up from the main Tegallalang road you can see signs such as 'Ada Guna Museum' or 'Garuda Village'. His gallery also produces high quality sculptures of many shapes and sizes. And yes, there is an emphasis on 'size'. His woodcarving reputation has it that his pieces stand massive and monumental. One of his Garudas looms over you as you step into his open garage size gallery - with a wingspan exceeding your arms spread.
Made Ada's Balinese lion sculptures have made their way into presidential palaces, museums and homes around the world. For over a decade now, Made Ada has personally supervised and instructed over a hundred of his fellow villagers, of which many have now established their own businesses.
A variety of woods are used, mahogany, jackfruit, ebony, teak, sandalwood, and a variety of indigenous woods such as suar. A small desktop Garuda statuette, polished and finished, is priced around Rp.100,000, while a grander two-meter tall specimen may cost Rp.125 million or more. Most materials are indigenous to Indonesia and of course are of the best natural quality.
Throughout the village, one may see these works of art going from their raw state (logs and chips) all the way to their final finishing--all by the master craftsmen of the vicinity. Visitors are also offered the chance to learn the craft by joining in the cultural courses provided. Besides experiencing casual shopping for the island's artistic items, guests may also witness the invaluable creation in process.
By Nyoman Ari Gunadi
Yayasan Pakudui
Ada Guna Museum, Pakudui, Kedisan, Tegallalang, Gianyar, (0361) 901-234 |
