Wonder Beneath
As diverse as its culture, religions, tropical vegetation and rainforests, Indonesia's seas showcase undoubtedly the world's most varied underwater wonders.

Magnificent scenery above and colorful variety below.

As diverse as its culture, religions, tropical vegetation, rice and rain forest trees, Indonesia's seas showcase undoubtedly the world's most varied underwater wonders.

Modern diving facilities at Lembeh, North Sulawesi.

Imagine a tropical country consisting of a stretch of thousands of islands located between two massive oceans and two continents. There must be (1) sunshine all year around, (2) a multitude of choices of beaches, and (3) plenty of shallow water. The direct result of these three factors is the abundance of aquatic life.

With a combined stretch of beach totaling as many as 81,000 kilometers (50,000 miles), such shallow waters where sunshine is needed for the coral to grow and the fish to frolic is certain to exist aplenty. Even without scientific reasoning, such a piece of a sea would very likely suggest that it attracts various species. This is true, as those factors are compounded by the stable yet continuously changing currents between the two oceans, guaranteeing abundant phytoplankton which make certain that many fish species abound.

So the said chain of islands stretching from the very west of Indonesia to the very east of Papua, and from the very south of Komodo to the very north of The Philippines, allow coral as well as fish to propagate.

Scientific studies conducted by many international organizations confirm that the area between the Philippines in the North, Bali in the southwest, and Raja Ampat of Papua in the southeast is known as the world's richest underwater garden in terms of fish and coral species. The golden triangle as it is popularly known, showcases the area as the major attraction of the world's underwater garden.

In between these three points lay some of the world's most spectacular diving sites, with variety as diverse as the total amount of islands in between them. Sangihe, Bunaken, Lembeh, Sipadan, Derawan, Banda, Takabonerate, Bali, Komodo, and Raja Ampat to name but a few.

It is true that in the past couple of decades these underwater attractions have been under serious threat from illegal fishing methods, namely potassium cyanide bombs. But it is also a fact that every destructive act is counterbalanced by recovery efforts. Such moves over the past decades have helped to ensure that at least the destructive fishing doesn't get worse. The Nature Conservancy (TNC), the Worldwide Fund for Nature (WWF), Conservation Indonesia (CI), and Reef Check International are among the global movers helping to safeguard this country's sea treasure.

At the grassroots level, many community-based organizations have also contributed in this movement. Among them, the Karang Lestari fishermen society in Pemuteran, Northwestern Bali, has gained UN environmental recognition for its successful bio-rock coral propagation development. (See Resort Review page 34 ).

Indonesia's aquatic environment also offers various challenges, from the world's calmest sea of Togian to the extremely rough currents of Mari Mabuk (let's get drunk, for one is assured to get headache after diving at this spot) in Wakatobi, both in Sulawesi (this certainly excludes the many surf spots Indonesia is famous for worldwide). The country is also the only place in the world where barrier reefs, atolls, and fringing reefs are often found together.

Bali, the southwestern most boundary of the golden triangle, features a limited yet quite essential part. Being a famous destination allows the island to receive worldwide attention. Most noticeable is the famous Liberty Wreck in Tulamben. The US cargo ship was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine at the height of World War II in 1942, right in the Lombok Strait. Surviving, it managed to land at the nearby beach of Tulamben. For two decades it remained nothing but a stranded war machine until the 1963's when Mt. Agung erupted and sent it down a few meters beneath the surface. Now it is home to flourishing soft and hard coral and various fish, including the rare pygmie seahorse.

Menjangan, Nusa Penida and Lembongan islands are the choices beyond the mainland, offering crystal clear water, extensive walls, and abundant fish. Further to the east, Lombok's three Gili islands are famous for their pristine water and endangered corals.

Komodo, earlier famous for its millennium-age creature the crocodile dragon, is home to over 200 dive spots spreading out over more than ten islands, including the famous Pantai Merah (red beach) and Manta Alley. Some divers say that Komodo absolutely deserves to be ranked second best only after Raja Ampat in Papua.
Raja Ampat in Papua deserves its premier recognition thanks to its remote location beyond the reach of the â?oeadvancedâ?� communities where fishing is an integral part of their industry. This allows Raja Ampat to develop into an undisturbed diving destination where only serious divers make it to visit. Raja Ampat is claimed by many as the finest dive spot, offering as much variety on the surface as well.

The apple of Indonesia's diving world, nonetheless, is Sulawesi. Located just next to the Wallace Line, this strangely-formed island is home to the country's most famous diving paradise, including some fresh water gardens. Sangihe, Bunaken, Lembeh, Wakatobi, Togian, and Takabonerate are all located nearby a 5,000 kilometer (3,100 mile) stretch of beach on the mainland. Bunaken often receives adoration from divers due to its easy access from the nearby modern city of Manado, and yet it uniquely remains undisturbed by the modern shore lifestyle.

Lembeh, a diving spot further to the northeast of Sulawesi, is now emerging as an important dive spot with its most modern infrastructure. Uniquely, this new dive spot doesn't have abundant coral but does have an endless view of just about every fish species that the whole area has to offer.
Yet perhaps the most beautiful dive spot the country has to offer lays in one of the many undisturbed islands, as only about one-third of the country's 18,000 islands are inhabited.

By Supardi Asmorobangun, photos by Yos W.K. Amerta