National Treasures in
Roemah Djawa
A visit to a house-cum-gallery in South Jakarta, filled with treasures and artifacts from all over Indonesia... and even beyond.
It was torture for a nocturnal prodigy like me to wake up at eight o'clock on a Sunday morning. What was I thinking earlier this week when I signed up for a group outing to Roemah Djawa? It must had been either the reasonably-priced guided tour plus the rijstafel lunch package at Rp. 280,000 for one, or the opportunity to make new acquaintances with fellow culture vultures. Yawning all the way from the central part of Jakarta to the Lebak Bulus area in the south, I swore to whatever gods hoping that the trip would be worth it.
The street where Roemah Djawa is located was not so convincing; a small one big enough to fit only two four-wheelers. The adequately-sized garden was not over-trimmed; making it look more like a natural mini rain forest. Through a heavily decorated Javanese wooden door I entered the main living room, where a surprise came to my sight with a bang.
The main living room was a traditional joglo house stuffed with antiquities, not only from all over the archipelago but also from other countries and parts of the world. The sweet violet-colored walls and wooden flooring spelled out a charming atmosphere, made even more romantic by the long white curtain dressing as the center-piece of the room; a sokoguru structure that leapt up the roof towards the sky (or heaven, as believed). Ornaments and woodcarvings created rich textures in the room, and together with statues of varied sizes, origins, and periods endorsed the rather mystical appeal.
The collections exhibited in that main joglo house ranged from beautiful draperies, carpets, home wares, Buddha heads, Cambodian string puppets, masks, small totems, Chinese dim sum trays, and everything beyond imagination. In one corner, under a pair of huge water buffalo horns, were fossils dating back hundreds of thousands years. The collection was so impressive I almost forgot about the finger foods and coffee served as mini breakfast. They were as precious as the stuff around them.
Roemah Djawa, still unpopular with the locals but already proudly discovered by Architectural Digest, Financial Times and the likes, was established by Leksmono "Leks" Santoso and his American wife Linda. Not only do they love Indonesia, but even the farthest part of this country has loved them back. A Papuan tribe adopted them and they were married in a village according to the local indigenous ritual. The passionate couple are ardent travelers, and Leks had been a tour guide to remote destinations for decades. Once they found five joglo houses and brought them all to Jakarta, where they combined them into a cluster. The result is a multi-leveled home-cum-gallery with fourteen rooms. Over 3,000 pieces of artwork, artifacts, and antiquities have been collected and displayed throughout this Roemah Djawa.
Leks himself welcomed his guests that morning, dressed in Papuan style, while the other members of the house wore traditional dress from Flores, Kalimantan, and other parts of Indonesia. With a happy smile and a loving spirit, Leks was more than just a tour guide, also a storyteller.
The room next to the main living room is red-washed and dedicated to Chinese heritage. Romantic ceramics, porcelains, ancient royal wardrobes, jade jewelry, paintings, books, and much more are impressively showcased. With a bathroom, a king-sized bed, and even a small praying corner, it also functions as a guest bedroom.
Not only did Leks open the guest bedroom for us he also let us take a peek into the main bedroom; his and Linda's private area. This quiet part of Roemah Djawa is a witness to the couple's love story, and how they dedicated their life to preserve and share the nation's priceless treasures. Inside their spacious bathroom were more adornments.
It was impossible not to include batik in Roemah Djawa. In this case, Leks has collected hundreds of them. Not only beautiful, but rare and old. Each piece of batik has a history of its own, spelling out tales from decades and centuries ago. Traditional tie-dyes from Nusa Tenggara and other parts of Indonesia are also among Leks's collection.
Room after room displays wonder after wonder. A mystical keris – like a sword – from the 14th century Padjajaran kingdom was exhibited before our very own eyes, standing on its own upon its sharp edge. It was witness to how fine and spiritual the craftsmanship of our ancestors was. In another room, the walls were covered by ancient tribal masks. They were the faces of our great history consisting of wars, rituals, and ceremonies.
The two-hour exploration of Roemah Djawa was filled with overwhelmed gasps. It ended in a dining room heavily decorated with Leks' precious Asmat artifacts. We enjoyed a rijstafel lunch amidst ancestral poles, totems, war masks, spears, shields, ritual costumes, and even an oversized wooden canoe. On the long Madura-style dining table, fifteen of us shared a delicious lunch, and we were all very impressed with how good the morning turned out to be.
As for me, my struggle to wake up early in the morning really paid off! The program can be custom-made with lunch, dinner, or even cheese-and-wine.
To avoid traffic, Saturday morning or anytime on Sunday is the best time for a visit. (By appointment only). ■
Text and photos by Ve Handojo
Roemah Djawa, Mr. Leksmono "Leks" Santoso
(021) 759-135-58, Jalan Lebak Bulus Raya 1 No. 85Z
Cilandak, South Jakarta; redestin@indosat.net.id
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