Love... and Stay
"Suite Dreams are made of this... who am I to disagree? Travel the world and the seven seas... everybody is looking for something..."
And, if they are really lucky, they may just find what they're looking for... at the Amankila on Bali's East Coast, where romance is alive and well in every breath you take, every move you make.
This outstanding resort embraces the natural curves and inclinations of the cliff side and is a world-class destination. The returning regulars are testament to the consistent high standard of service and the amiable nature of the staff, who manage to, while catering to your every need, engage you in genuine exchanges that offers insight into the nature of Bali and the Balinese.
At the Maxfield Parrish evoking reception pavilion, with the cerulean blue skies, soft apricot stone and elegant furnishings, it is tempting to imagine angels flying around playing Balinese music on golden gamelans! And although they don't fly, the staff are indeed angels. They led us to our suite, located on the corner of the cliff complete with private pool and bale, then showed us where everything was and how it worked, and then on padded angel feet tiptoed out to leave us in awe and admiration.
The pool sits over the lip of the cliff and from the bale you can imagine floating on clouds. We slipped from pool to clouds as the afternoon floated by on a gentle breeze that carried with it the soft tones of a gamelan, which at the time I was convinced came from the trees, but later discovered was actually coming from the iPod that had been placed discreetly by the bed!
As the sun began to set we made our way to the beach by buggy. We could have walked through the gamelan playing trees but the buggy was just there, and it provided the opportunity for the driver to tell us about the dance we would soon see.
The Kecak Dance is a trance dance with many chanting men, about forty for this performance, and tells a tale from the Ramayana. Brothers Subali and Sugriwa were offered the goddess Tara as a reward for killing a giant, and as with all good stories it twists, turns and crackles with atmosphere. The chanting "cak-cak-cak" of the chorus adds to the drama as the waves crash on the beach and the moon beams down on the made-up faces of the dancers. Truly a magical show!
And what magicians had been at work while we were on the beach? At our suite the outside bale had been turned into a bed worthy of the Ramayana Royals, and at the beautifully arranged table a divine dinner was about to be served.
Truly a feast for the gods, it had the freshest seafood, the most delicate vegetables, the most piquant of salsas, and the most romantic company on the planet. Suite dreams are made of this!
I thought nothing could surpass this sense of epicurean satisfaction, but like the most seductive of lovers the chef had saved the best 'til last: A goats cheese cheesecake, with a sharp fruit aside... Heaven must be missing an angel, because there is one running the kitchens of the Amankila.
As the moon shone full over the inky sea I fell into a cotton-sheeted coma of repletion, waking only momentarily to marvel at the nebulous mist of stars that hung in the sky.
The dawn broke, cool and silvery, with a spike of chill which was surprisingly pleasant. Rubbing our eyes we dove into the pool to awaken ourselves and prepare for our next treat. Breakfast, high on a hill overlooking rice terraces, curving bays and the promontory of Padang Bai, beside a babbling brook. Poetically we indulged in fresh fruit, muesli, little pastries and hot tea served from a picnic basket, then lounged under the warming sun in our own 'tree house' bale.
When we returned our massage therapists welcomed us to the beach side spa room, and under a canopy of green they treated us to a traditional Balinese massage. "Aah... Aman, who needs a man?"
With all that can be done on the East Coast, visiting the secret Pasir Putih, climbing Mount Agung at midnight, snorkeling and cruising on AmanXII, trekking and cycling through charming villages, the need for anything else is almost negligible. Except for one thing... Love is the message and the message is love, so if you can't be with the one you love, love the one you're staying with: The Amankila... ■ Text by Katy Robertson, courtesy photos
The Amankila
Manggis, Karangasem, East Bali
(0363) 41-333; amankila@amanresorts.com
|
